One of my most treasured pieces of jewellery is a stunning 1930s faux ruby pin made by the pre-eminent American costume jeweller, Trifari. Like thousands of collectors worldwide, I find the appeal of its brightly coloured and imaginative costume jewellery irresistible and as the trend for all things vintage gathers momentum, Trifari pieces are likely to become increasingly sought-after.

(above) 1950s Trifari Alfred Philippe £600-700 CRIS

The company was found in 1910 in New York by Gustavo Trifari, who had recently immigrated to the US from Naples, where he had trained as a goldsmith under his grandfather. After working with his uncle, Trifari left to set up his own business, making high quality original pieces. Initial commercial success followed the appointment in 1917 of Leo Krussman as sales manager, and this was consolidated when the pair took on Carl Fishel in 1923. The trio became known as Trifari, Krussman and Fishel (T. K. F.) before reverting to the name ‘Trifari’ – for its association with Italian elegance – and grew to become one of the largest and most highly regarded makers of costume jewellery. Ownership of the company passed to the sons of the original trio in 1964 and, after 20 further years of success, it became part of the Monet Group. Liz Claiborne, the high street fashion conglomerate, took control of Trifari in 2000.

Trifari’s continued popular success was due in no small part to a number of talented designers, amongst whom Alfred Phillipe, who worked for the company from 1930 until 1968, is perhaps the pre-eminent figure. Having worked for Cartier, Van Cleef and Arpels, he was responsible for introducing elaborate techniques such as invisible setting – more frequently associated with precious jewellery than with its less exclusive costume cousin. His imitations of expensive precious jewellery made with gold-plated metals and Swarovski crystals bestowed on Trifari the nickname ‘Diamanté Kings’. Phillipe’s most commercially successful pieces were his ‘Crown’ pins and Lucite ‘Jelly Bellies’, but it is his high-end, individually produced pieces that attract the most interest today. Many other skilled designers, such as Joseph Wuyts, Alfred Spaney and Marcella Saltz also contributed successful designs to the company.

(right) A 1940s Trifari vermeil crown pin designed by Alfred Phillipe, with green jelly belly type stones and slight wear to gold plating. 1.25in (3cm) high £120-180 PC

In its heyday, Trifari was fortunate enough to attract the best kind of high profile publicity. During the 1930s, the glamorous stars of stage and screen fell in love with Trifari and the public, covetous of the lifestyles led by their idols, eagerly sought out the products associated with them. Trifari created exclusive designs for many actresses, as well as for a number of Broadway musicals, such as the hugely popular Roberta. Celebrity endorsement of Trifari’s costume jewellery did not end with the 1930s. First Lady Mamie Eisenhower commissioned his work during the 1950s, and wore specially made pieces for the 1953 and 1957 Presidential Inaugural balls. More recently, Madonna glittered in a ‘Jewels of India’ pin and a pair of Trifari earrings, inspired by a 1920s Cartier design, in the blockbusting ‘90s film Evita. The profile of the company was raised further by strong and prolific advertising campaigns, which highlighted glamour and good taste.

(left) A 1950s Trifari owl pin. 3cm high £40-60 CRIS

The earrings, pins and necklaces made by Trifari changed dramatically over the years as the company sought to keep up with changing trends, but it was not all style without substance: many Trifari pieces are remarkable for their quality as well as for their aesthetic. However, throughout the company’s history, pieces were designed for all levels of the market and there are wide differences between high-end, individually produced examples and mass-produced cheaper pieces. Like many costume jewellers, Trifari’s stable of artists stretched their creative powers to the limit to come up with striking compositions innovative enough to compete with the eye-catching qualities of precious stones. They used materials as diverse as moulded and pressed glass, high quality pastes imitating moonstone and chalcedony, and faux pearls and rubies. The company even developed its own non-tarnishing silver substitute, which it named Trifanium.

Fuelled today by celebrities and top contemporary fashion designers, the trend for vintage fashion has increased demand for Trifari costume jewellery. It is, however, still relatively affordable – unlike higher-end vintage jewellery such as Cartier and Dior, which is now priced out of many people’s pocket. All Trifari is collectible, but high quality 1930s pieces by Alfred Phillipe, are particularly sought-after. Other favourites include patriotic pins produced during World War II depicting American flags and eagles. 1950s jewellery featuring faux pearl, brushed gold and gemstones are also proving popular while floral and foliate pieces have stood the test of time and remain desirable.

(right) 1940s rare Trifari £1,200-1,300 SUM

Prices for Trifari vary a great deal, largely because its output was so diverse. Buyers expect to pay anything between £100 for a 1950s gold-plated necklace and £1,500 for a rare 1940s sterling silver floral pin. In general, pieces from the 1930s and 1940s tend to command higher prices than those made in the 1950s and 1960s, but there are exceptions.

Later Trifari often has a more pared-down design, but are just as stylish and may be a good option for those with a tighter budget. Other less costly Trifari includes miniature fruit or heraldic pins from the late 1950s and 1960s, in matte-finish silver alloy, which are worth £20-25 or more. These were often worn in clusters, but look just as good individually. The popular creature pins, such as dragons, snails and elephants are a collecting field in their own right and can be worth from around £20 to over a thousand, with earlier versions typically more expensive. Crown pins, produced from the late 1930s to the 1950s and worth around £100 upwards, should not be confused with 1980s reissues, which are worth relatively little. Generally, the value of Trifari pieces is affected by a combination of material, rarity, age, design and condition.

(left) 1940s Trifari Alfred Philippe £450 CRIS

There are many fantastic jewellery boutiques that stock a range of Trifari. Cristobal, www.cristobal.co.uk, and Richard Gibbon in London have a variety to choose from, whilst many dealers in Trifari’s country of origin, the US, have a fine selection. Pieces also come up from time to time on eBay, but it is important to be sure of what you are buying before you get carried away by the glitz and glamour!

Take a look at my DK Collector's Guide: Costume Jewellery, the definitive guide to buying, selling and collecting costume jewellery, for information on over 1,500 collectable pieces with price and sizes clearly displayed; plus tips on what to look out for when buying.



Images © Judith Miller & Dorling Kindersley